Edible Icons: Big Sur Bliss #EdibleMontereyBay

Spring 2017 – This piece went live in the Spring print edition of Edible Monterey Bay. Read it on their website archive.

EDIBLE ICONS: BIG SUR BLISS

Story and Photos by Camilla M. Mann

Globe-trotting farm dinner series

shines a light on local land preservation

Range to table: Chef Brett Cooper with beef grazed and cooked on site at Glen Deven Ranch.

“This is the one. Maybe the best OITF event ever!” reads the caption for the photo that Outstanding in the Field posted on Instagram about its epic dinner at the Big Sur Land Trust’s Glen Deven Ranch late last fall. “The day, the place, the people, the food…it really was as good as it gets.”

Jim Denevan, the Santa Cruz chef and artist who founded OITF, admits that he almost regretted making the statement. “I’ve never said that before—best event ever—because I don’t like to think there’s a hierarchy of events.”

Still, the caption remained. And chef Brett Cooper of San Francisco’s Aster, the featured chef at the Glen Deven Ranch dinner, echoes the sentiment. “The weather was so perfect. There was no wind. It was beautiful and warm and sunny. Everything played out perfectly. Everything went right.”

Denevan created OITF in 1999, when the idea of a culinary event on a farm or ranch—at the source of the food—was still novel. He wanted to connect guests with their food by setting outdoor, communal tables right on the farms, where participating farmers, chefs and food artisans could be showcased and brought closer to the general public.

Over the past 17 years and for nearly a thousand events, OITF has set its table in all 50 states and in a dozen countries around the world, from Japan to Mexico. While many individual farms host farm-to-table events, OITF is the only farm-to-table dinner organizer that is international in scope, and its dinners are now held in a variety of natural settings.

Chef Brad Briske of Home restaurant in Soquel, who regularly cooks for onsite farm dinners all around the Monterey Bay region, has served as chef at three different OITF events over the years. “It’s a great concept… and a great name,” he says, admitting that for a chef it’s grueling.

“That second dinner, we hiked everything we needed a quarter mile in, across dunes, to this secret cove. It was a crazy experience,” he recalls. “That night I did 60 whole fried fish and gazpacho. But, at the end, I got a standing ovation and I have to admit that was cool.”

In the case of the Glen Deven Ranch event, 120 guests as well as staff from the organizers and participating purveyors—including Corral de Tierra Cattle Co., Kunin Wines, Fort Point Beer Co. and TwoXSea — converged high atop a coastal ridge between Carmel and Big Sur to create a restaurant without walls. OITF didn’t name the spot in advance on its website, but described it as an extraordinary secret setting: “Every direction is majesty—ocean, forest, grassland, 360-degree views; it’s all here.”

Top Left: OITF founder Jim Denevan at left, with chef Brett Cooper

“Fog produces a good quality

grass, and grazing animals

create vivacious ecosystems and

reduce fire fuel.”

Glen Deven Ranch is part of the more than 40,000 acres conserved by the Big Sur Land Trust. Donors Dr. Seeley Mudd and Virginia Mudd bequeathed the 860-acre property to the land trust in 2001 with the dream of sharing it with others and inspiring conservation, goals that aligned perfectly with the land trust’s mission. Throughout the summer, the ranch hosts youth nature camps which are attended largely by teens from the Salinas Valley. “For many this is their very first opportunity to connect with land and nature, to sleep under the stars, to enjoy quiet time and consider the possibilities,” says Jeannette Tuitele-Lewis, the land trust’s president and CEO.

The land trust has also maintained the ranch tradition of partnering with Glen Deven’s neighboring community. The ranch serves as an emergency way station for the residents of Palo Colorado during fires and floods. In fact, from where the tables were set for the OITF event, we could see the jagged fire lines that were hand-cut to prevent last summer’s Soberanes Fire from consuming the entire hillside.

“The ranch was integral in defending the canyon during the fire. You can see the drastic, beautiful, scary power of fire. It’s a reminder that we are vulnerable,” Tuitele-Lewis says.

Against that dramatic backdrop, Cooper and his team served eight different dishes, including Devoto Orchards Arkansas black apples with smoked Klingman Ranch pork belly; Laguna Farm Forono beets with Flying Disc Ranch dates, olives, pecans, and preserved Hamada Farms Meyer lemons; and smoked TwoXSea black cod salad with First Light Farm fennel, Hamada Farms mandarins, and shiso.

It was especially moving for Cooper to be able to prepare two beef dishes—a tartar and one that was grilled—with meat provided by Corral de Tierra Cattle Co., which grazes animals at the very ranch where the dinner took place. “I was overcome by the beauty of the wonderful history—the story of the ranch and the generations of people running cattle in Big Sur,” Cooper says.

Mark Farr, the rancher behind Corral de Tierra Cattle Co., says grazing cattle at coastal Glen Deven Ranch is good for both the cattle and the land. “Fog produces a good quality grass, and grazing animals create vivacious ecosystems and reduce fire fuel,” Farr says.

Passion on the part of all the participants was clearly evident—Denevan’s mission to bring producers and consumers to the same table; the culinary creativity that earned Cooper a Michelin star within one year of opening Aster; Farr’s dedication to producing high-quality grassfed beef while embracing sustainable land stewardship; and the Big Sur Land Trust’s commitment to preserving and sharing the beauty of all its holdings.

Even the diners displayed remarkable determination to be there. More than a few people flew from out of state to attend. “We barely made it,” I overheard one man say in the shuttle bus to the ranch. “Our flight from Chicago was delayed and then we hit traffic on the way from the airport.” People drove from the Los Angeles area that afternoon; one couple making a weeklong vacation out of their trip booked two back-to-back OITF events for while they were in the area.

Having only been to one OITF event, I can’t say whether it was the best event ever. But there certainly was some alchemy on that bluff that evening. The fog started to roll in as we sat down for our first course. But it stayed at bay for the duration of the dinner, allowing us to revel in the drama of the coastline and witness the sun transform the sky into a vibrant persimmon orange as it dipped into the Pacific Ocean. It was magical.

Photos from the Big Sur Foragers' Festival 2015

I was able to attend the cooking demonstration yesterday afternoon at the Big Sur Foragers' Festival. Here's the post I wrote for my own kitchen blog: Cooking Foraged Foods with Incredible Local Chefs.

Turns that the festival didn't have a photographer assigned to the event themselves, so they used mine. Sweet!

Road Trippin' to Big Sur for INDYpendence Day {Edible Monterey Bay}

This piece hit the Edible Monterey Bay blog this morning. Click here to read it there...or read below.

Road Trippin’ to Big Sur for INDYpendence Day

Story and Photos by Camilla M. Mann

This month – on Independence Day – the ‘First Thursday’ INDY event hit the road and set-up in Big Sur. Initially, in 2012, the INDY was a mélange of farmers peddling their produce, artisans showcasing their foods and creations, and vintners pouring their libations in a dynamic, spirited marketplace. Having built a loyal following, the INDY was re-imagined earlier this year as a pop-up dinner hosted on the first Thursday of each month. There is still a mini-marketplace of local foodsmiths, but the central focus is a feast, served family-style, with live entertainment and a whole lot of community-building. People pass plates, swap stories, and revel in the festive atmosphere. And like the INDY marketplace before it, a portion of the ticket proceeds from the INDY pop-ups benefit a local non-profit. This month’s recipient was the very spot in which we were dining: the Henry Miller Library.

If you’re never been to the Henry Miller Library in Big Sur, it’s a non-profit bookstore and arts center championing the late Big Sur resident, writer, and artist Henry Miller. Founded in the early 1980s, the bookstore is nestled beneath towering redwoods in the former home of one of Henry Miller’s friends.

In his 1939 novel Tropic of Capricorn, Miller wrote:  “The aim of life is to live, and to live means to be aware, joyously, drunkenly, serenely, divinely aware.” His namesake library is a stunning venue with a relaxed vibe. It’s perfect for an INDY par-tay – a place to live, be aware, be joyous, be serene, and be drunk…as long as you’re not the designated driver for this lil’ road trip.

Thirteen months of working in and learning to cook in Rome, rendered me something of a pizza snob. I’m particular about the crust and even pickier about the toppings. Toppings need to be fresh, with flavors that just pop in your mouth. Danica Alvarado, the force behind Tricycle Pizza, absolutely nailed it. Tricycle Pizza is less than a year old, but Alvarado has her family working alongside and took her mobile wood-fire pizza and catering business full-time in November. While I chatted with her, her mom was tossing dough, her sister topped them, and her dad was slicing the pies as they came out of the oven. 

They served three different kinds of pizza – goat cheese and arugula, pepperoni and parsley, and pesto with chicken. After experimenting with different kinds of wood, Alvarado settled on apple wood which imparts a subtle flavor to her pizza and burns consistently for the duration of cooking. She explained that she brings the oven up to 1000 degrees, lets it cool to around 800, and the pies cook in a little under three minutes. The crust was perfectly crisp with a slight char on the rim. And the toppings were deliciously paired for a flawless presentation.

Another newcomer to the Monterey County food scene is Pop Culture Beverage owned by Drew and Elske Daigle. How new? you ask. Brand new. “We just moved here on Sunday,” gushed Elske. Formerly based in Santa Barbara, Pop Culture's Premium Artisan Beverages begin simply as fresh pressed fruit. They don’t add any color, flavor or artificial sweetener. Talking to them was like talking to a vintner who carefully selects the fruit before production begins. The Daigles aim to celebrate and retain the fruit's true flavor profile, using the juice from perfectly ripe fruit before gently carbonating and bottling their creations. They were pouring their Obamagranate, made with pomegranates from Madera, in the Central Valley. It was the perfect antidote the hot, summer sun.

Other vendors were set up throughout the garden. The PigWizard – John Roberts –  was slinging bacon, sausages, and jars of his Hog Scald Barbeque Sauce; The Drink Mixtress – Vanessa Share – was pouring grilled peach margaritas with fresh sage, citrus, and organic tequila plus an equally innovative lemon-cucumber mojitos made with yerba buena and organic rum; the ladies from Planet Love Funk set up a table with everything from chocolate confections to jarred spices for making chai; and there was a wide selection of veggies from Esalen’s Harvest Garden and beers from Post No Bills available for purchase.

Along with the pizza, Local Catch of Monterey Bay steamed clams and mussels in Tricycle Pizza’s oven. Todd Champagne, the Independent Marketplace co-founder and owner of Happy Girl Kitchen, presented piles of his Sour Garlic Pickles that had been sitting in brine for ten days. Chef Matt Millea, formerly of Sierra Mar Restaurant at Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn, manned the grill, serving poblano peppers sprinkled with Big Sur sea salt, fresh ears of corn still in their husks, and chunks of sea bass on a bed of tomatoes topped with fresh hollyhock petals and a drizzle of herb aioli. “Yesterday, these were two thirty-five pound sea bass in our bay. Today, they’re this,” quipped Champagne from the stage, gesturing at the platters circulating the garden.

Entertaining the sold-out crowd was Songs Hotbox Harry Taught Us, a seven-member band based in Big Sur. In fact, Magnus Toren, who strummed his guitar, sang, and drank beer simultaneously, acts as the Henry Miller Library’s Executive Director. Songs Hotbox Harry Taught Us performed some original songs and some classics, some old school rock’n’roll and some rockabilly, a fusion genre that infuses the rock of the 1950s with some blues and country. While all their tunes were enjoyable, Tracy Chesebrough’s rendition of the 1966 Byrds’ “Mr. Spaceman” was delightful.

Woke up this morning with light in my eyes

And then realized it was still dark outside

It was a light coming down from the sky

I don't know who or why

Must be those strangers that come every night

Those saucer shaped lights put people uptight

Leave blue green footprints that glow in the dark

I hope they get home all right

Hey, Mr. Spaceman

Won't you please take me along

I won't do anything wrong

Hey, Mr. Spaceman

Won't you please take me along for a ride

July’s INDY was a wild success, bringing mom-and-pop artisans to a crowd who rejoices in the local, the handcrafted, and the creative. Some were perennial favorites and some were new to the Monterey Bay foodscape. Either way, I now have some new favorites and will seek out their goodies wherever I can. Thanks to the organizers of the INDY First Thursday events for taking us along for a great ride. I’ve already penciled in the date for next month’s party: August 1^st.

Under the Big Top Photos

When I submitted my article - Under the Big Top at the Grand Public Tasting - for Edible Monterey Bay, I had included some photos that didn't make the final cut on the blogpost. But I wanted to share them because I love them!

Under the Big Top at the Grand Public Tasting

My article about the Grand Public Tasting at the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival hit the Edible Monterey Bay blog today - 5 November 2012. Click to read it on the website.

Under the Big Top at the Grand Public Tasting

Story and Photos by Camilla M. Mann

With events ranging from elegant winemaker dinners to insightful panels that focus on a single wine appellation and from Magical Mystery Tours – part garden party and part moveable feast –  to Hiking with Stemware©, the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival is a multi-day panoply of culinary talent and creativity in one of the most picturesque spots on the planet.

Founded in 2009 by Toby Rowland-Jones, the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival blends fine food and wine with a little bohemian Big Sur character. Though the festival is certainly epicurean in focus, it’s not just about the enjoyment of good food. Roland-Jones and his committee of like-minded friends infuse the event with this philosophy, articulated by Greek philosopher Epicurus: “Of all the means to ensure happiness throughout the whole life, by far the most important is the acquisition of friends.”

I was thrilled to have tickets to one of the Saturday events. When I was searching for my +1, among my foodie friends, I simply emailed out these seven words: “50 wineries! 15 chefs! Post Ranch Inn.” Within a few moments of sending the message, my extra ticket had been claimed. So, Jenn and I headed down the coast to the gorgeous Post Ranch Inn for the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival’s Grand Public Tasting; unsure of what to expect, we were armed with rumbling bellies and a sense of adventure.

The Grand Public Tasting at the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival is like a carnival for foodies and oenophiles. There’s simply no better way to describe it. It’s exhilarating. It’s a riotous mix of colors, textures, and flavors. It’s even housed in a Big Top tent!

With only three hours to explore, you would expect the pace to be frantic. Instead people lingered. They chatted with the chefs, sipped with the winemakers, and shared tables with strangers.

We started off talking to Chef Michael Jones of Carmel Valley’s A Moveable Feast who was hosting the table with his son Chef Brendan Jones of Carmel Valley’s Lokal. “This is the last of the wild-caught salmon for the season,” Jones announced as he deftly sliced the bright orange flesh and placed it on a piece of crusty bread. So thin that you could almost see through it, the salmon was unadorned and exquisite.

Chef Brian Overhauser of Chef’s Kitchen at the Hahn Estates in Soledad was also offering salmon: a duet of plump salmon roe with a dollop of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of fresh herbs and salmon tartare garnished with a baby beet leaf. Overhauser’s was craft-raised Skuna Bay salmon from Vancouver Island. Skuna Bay salmon are reared, by hand, in its natural ocean environment with glacier-fed waters, perfect salinity and strong tidal currents. Overhauser’s salmon tartare was austere, delicate, and silky.

In contrast to the simplicity of these salmon presentations, several chefs dazzled with innovative flavor combinations. A couple with whom we chatted – had traveled from Oregon to rendezvous with friends from all over the country at the festival – marveled at Chef Jerry Regester’s dish. Imagine a cube of tender pork shank terrine over Umbrian lentils folded into a goat cheese vinaigrette. Top that with a creamy lump of Dungeness crab. Then add a splash of emerald-hued pumpkin seed oil and toss on some confetti-like herbs. “Who thinks of putting things together like this?!?” mused the wife. Regester, the Executive Chef at The C restaurant + bar inside Cannery Row’s The Clement, layered flavors and textures to create one of my favorite dishes of the day.

Chef Jon Cox of Post Ranch’s Sierra Mar, along with his team, flexed his culinary muscles with four different dishes, including a Big Sur chanterelle mushroom risotto topped with parmesan pesto and a black truffle coin and a grissini wrapped in a slice of Wagyu beef. But it was his sweet creation that astonished me. An understated butterscotch cremeux topped with unsweetened cream and dots of heirloom apples transformed into a sublime dessert with some spiced, buttery crumbles and fresh thyme.

Other edible notables: Santa Cruz-based Tabitha Stroup of Friend in Cheeses Jam Company was serving her Lavender-Plum Jelly with gorgonzola, Rosie’s Hip Jelly on a spoonful of peppercorn chevre, and her Pinot Cherries on a slice of chorizo.

Todd Champagne of Happy Girl Kitchen in Pacific Grove had glass barrels full of pickled goodness to share – green beans, sliced turnips, thick cucumber coins, and enough delicious garlic cloves to keep an entire army of vampires at bay.

The Marin County-based Rustic Bakery offered a savory – their Olive Oil and Sel Gris Sourdough Flatbread with a smear of Cowgirl Creamery cheese – and a sweet – their Hazelnut and Sultana Pan Forte Crostini topped with cheese and a zesty orange marmalade.

Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company displayed an edible tower of their Original Blue alongside nothing but EcoTaster Mini spoons.  

And that was just the food. Remember the numbers I mentioned? 15 chefs and 50 wineries. Jenn and I tried to be strategic – tasting new-to-us wines, not old favorites, and sharing glasses – in order to sample as many of the offerings as we could. Still we ended up hitting only about a quarter of the vintners. But now we have some new favorites and it means that we’ll have to keep the list accessible and our eyes open for other chances to taste these wines.

We tried Fiddlehead Cellars’s “Seven Twenty Eight” 2008 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir. Supple stone fruit flavors with subtle spice at the end. This was a graceful, full-bodied red that I will definitely try again. Then we, die-hard Star Wars movie fans that we are, sauntered over to the Skywalker Ranch table and tasted their 2010 Pinot Noir. Yes, I know it’s a little like buying a wine for the label, but the wine was surprisingly good. Dark, complex, and serious. Like Darth Vader, except good, really good.

We were, unwittingly, on a Pinot Noir kick. There were plenty of other varietals, but as I look through the tick-marks and notes scribbled on my wine list, we sipped Ghost Writer’s 2010 Bell Farms Pinot Noir from Santa Cruz, Flying Goat Cellars’s Rio Vista Vineyard Dijon 2008 Pinot Noir from , and Martinelli’s 2010 Zio Tony Ranch Pinot Noir.

We broke our pinot streak – and our self-imposed rule of trying new-to-us wines – with Calcerous Vineyards’s 2009 York Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. That’s been a favorite since we toured the winery in Paso Robles a few years back. Then I had to try Scarpetta’s 2010 Barbera del Monferatto for the name. ‘Scarpetta’ in Italian is, literally, little shoe, but it is also a colloquial expression for using a piece of bread to sop up the sauce left on your plate. Italians are divided into two groups: those who fare la scarpetta (do the shoe) and those who don’t. The population of the latter is much smaller than the former. Most brazen food lovers, me included, dig in – with our scarpette – with no regrets. So, when I saw the sign for Scarpetta, I had to try it.

My favorite wine of the afternoon was actually the first in our Pinot Noir parade: Copain’s 2009 Les Voisins Pinot Noir. Meaning “neighbors” in French, Copain’s Pinot Noir has light florals, deep red fruits, and an energetic, bright acidity. And as it was the perfect wine to end our afternoon, we went back for one last pour before we hit the road.

The Grand Public Tasting at the Big Sur Food & Wine Festival was an afternoon of culinary magic, an oenophilic paradise, and a place where food lovers converged and conversed with friends old and new…under the big top.

Writing Honorable Mention: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park {Catch-Up}

Best Campsites in California

trazzler.com contest deadline of March 7, 2012

Clinging to the cliffs south of Big Sur is one of the state parks that bears the name "Pfeiffer." This park, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, is a family favorite for two reasons: first, McWay Waterfall, a frothy white stream that drops from a steep cliff to a turquoise cove below; second, two of the most secluded state-run campsites you will find. Ever. Don't be fooled into booking a spot at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. It's not the same place. Julia Pfeiffer Burns's campsites are accessible only by hike. It's a short hike, but it is steep—downhill going in and uphill coming out. So, pack lightly or bring a wheelbarrow. When I was fortunate enough to book both sites for my son's birthday camping trip one year, we picked up the parking tags from the wilderness station and the ranger asked, incredulously, "How did you get the two best campsites in California on a holiday weekend?!" Lots of planning and a little luck.

Photography Honorable Mention: Garrapata State Park {Catch-Up}

Who Needs Video Games?

trazzler.com deadline of March 7, 2012

Too many kids sit inside. Maybe reading a book, but more than likely, parked in front of a television or in front of some gadget that begins with an 'i'. Too many kids need toys. Now I am not saying that my kids don't have toys or that we don't have a television, but - really? - who needs those when you have the outdoors, great weather, and vibrant imaginations. I took the boys down the coast to Garrapata State Beach because it's on the closure list for July of this year. Truly sad. We stayed for hours, digging in the sand, skipping rocks, and - like Indiana Jones - using beached macrocystis stipes as whips. What fun!

A Culinary Adventure Down the Coast {Edible Monterey Bay}

This article is posted on the Edible Monterey Bay blog: here.

A transporting hike and brunch at Big Sur’s Restaurant at Ventana The third installment of Edible Monterey Bay’s pop-up series brought me, with a good friend and fellow foodie in tow, to the Ventana Inn and Spa for a hike and a brunch. What a thrill to head down the coast from Monterey on a soggy morning and find Ventana enveloped in a bubble of sunshine! Gathering in front of The Restaurant at Ventana, our group of culinary adventurers chatted amicably before heading off on a trail led by Stephen Copeland. A long-time Big Sur resident and owner of Big Sur Guides, Copeland—part naturalist and part local historian—egaled us with stories of Hatfield and McCoy-style feuds between Big Sur landowners and reminisced about Lolly Fassett who started the Nepenthe Restaurant after nurturing the local community nightly with her roasted chicken and stuffing. Copeland recounted that Orson Welles, from whom the Fassetts acquired the property in 1947, had purchased the original cabin, for his wife, Rita Hayworth, as a haven from Hollywood. Despite the seemingly endless views of the dramatic coastline in both directions, Hayworth purportedly declared: “Orson, this is so cute, but I will never spend the night here.” Whether she did or not, Copeland wasn’t sure, but he did know that a few years later the Fassetts bought the property from Welles and began the transformation into what Nepenthe is now, a Bohemian cliffside restaurant where both locals and tourists flock. Nepenthe, in Greek, means “that which chases away sorrow.” And it is aptly named. Just setting foot in that vibrant place makes you smile. As we wound along the trails, Copeland conducted what he jokingly called “Redwood 101.” He discussed the trees’ lateral and vertical growth. He talked about the faces in the bark. He told us how redwood trees reproduce, with the younger trees creating tight rings around their parents. Copeland explained how the Esalens and Salinans, the Native American tribes who called the area home, viewed the redwood family rings as sacred places. Circles of life. The tribes performed marriage rituals in the middle of these towering trees; they brought elders to the circles of life to die. At one point during the hike, our group stood in the center of one of these circles. Surrounded by sixteen giants, we inhaled the citrusy scent from the forest duff beneath our shoes and heard the energetic chirps of the wood sparrow. “Listen. If you come into the Ventana wilderness and you don’t hear that,” Copeland gestured towards the source of the noise, “leave. Leave quickly. It means there’s a predator nearby.” And with that caveat, we headed out of the redwood circle and toward the restaurant, comforted by the constant chirp, chirp, chirp of the birds. With stomachs rumbling and relaxed from the fresh air and sunshine, we were greeted by Kara Stout, Ventana’s Food and Beverage manager, who guided us to the patio. We settled beneath an arbor embraced by gnarled honeysuckle vines whose heady scent is stronger than you would expect from such wiry blossoms. Our first task: answer the question, “what would you like to drink?” I have to admit that I have never seen such a unique selection of brunch libations; I had a tough time deciding. There was, of course, the de rigueur bellini and ubiquitous mimosa. But it was the more innovative offerings that intrigued me. I vacillated between the St. Germain Royal—Roederer Brut with St. Germain elderflower liqueur, and a lime wheel—and the Hair of the Dog Punsch—lemon-infused Zaya rum with spiced black tea. In the end I opted for the Hair of the Dog Punsch; punsch—with its seemingly errant “s”—is not actually a typo. Punsch, Stout answered when I asked, derives from a northern European spelling of this cocktail that is served hot. Though I was initially reluctant to order it because rum cocktails are notoriously syrupy sweet, I couldn’t resist the name. The concoction turned out to be surprisingly spicy and slightly bitter. It was quite enjoyable but a vivid contrast to the chilled, effervescent St. Germain that I sampled by sneaking a sip from my friend’s champagne flute. After clinking our glasses amid celebratory toasts and well-wishes, we considered ten entrée offerings. Chef Truman Jones had fashioned a generous brunch menu with everything from chicken enchiladas to a classic Caesar salad and from homemade granola to a Big Sur burger. I ducked into the kitchen to snap some photos and inquired, casually, about the chef’s favorite. Eggs Benedict. That made my decision simple. It’s my favorite, too. Toasted English muffins were topped with steamed spinach and pillows of perfectly poached eggs. The applewood smoked pork loin was just crispy enough to lend texture to the mouthfeel yet soft enough to complement the silky eggs. And I was grateful that the hollandaise sauce added just the right amount of lemony flavor without drowning the dish. The Californian Salad was a green and orange confetti of golden beets, roasted asparagus, and orange segments tossed with crisp romaine leaves in a buttermilk ranch dressing and topped with toasted almonds and buttery avocado slices. Then there was comfort food at its best. The Shelton Farms Turkey Gravy Smothered Biscuits, first on the menu, looked positively decadent. I wasn’t familiar with Shelton Farms before this meal. A quick search showed me a company, run by three generations of the Flanagan family, whose website reads: “Our turkeys and chickens don’t do drugs.” I can certainly get behind a company whose philosophy is that their poultry – chickens, turkeys, and ducks – grow healthier when they are allowed to walk around in the open air and sunshine, free to scratch at the ground and peck away at whatever catches their fancy. While I didn’t taste any of the other entrées, our table was lined with empty plates, indicating that all were delectable. To say the view from The Restaurant at Ventana was breathtaking sounds needlessly hyperbolic. But I did—literally—catch my breath in awe when I looked up and down the coast from my seat on the terrace. Cloudless cerulean skies stretched in either direction as far as I could see. Stunning. Table chatter ran the gamut from local food events, including the recent Cooking for Solutions, to recipes or culinary processes. And we imagined how we could use the sprigs of California sage that Copeland had plucked from the bushes for us. I’m considering a roasted chicken with stuffing in Lolly Fassett’s honor. Leeks, celery, rye bread, California sage, and lots of butter. I have no idea if her stuffing used California sage, or not, but I know it will be a tasty reminder of this third installment of the pop-up series from Edible Monterey Bay. I’ll echo the sentiments printed at the bottom of our special menu: Thank you to Edible Monterey Bay. Yes, indeed, thank you! This was a truly enjoyable way to spend the morning…learning, imbibing, and feasting in one of the most scenic spots around.