Flavor Meets Aethetics in Your Backyard
Story and Photos by Camilla M. Mann
May 19, 2015 – Sharing some crazy pastry wizard techniques,
executive pastry chef Ron Mendoza of Aubergine in Carmel and EMB’s Pastry
Chef of the Year defined fine dining and convinced us we need to switch to
metric measurements at the fifth installment of the In Your Backyard series
sponsored by Edible Monterey Bay and Holman Ranch.
“Making pastries requires technique,” Mendoza said. “You
manipulate ingredients to make something out of nothing.” Mendoza demonstrated
a microwave sponge cake that was pioneered by Albert Adrià of El Bulli in
Spain. Instead of using a whisk or a leavening agent, Mendoza used nitrous
oxide—in a whipped cream charger—to aerate the cake batter. He popped the
batter into the microwave for forty seconds and out came a nicely risen, airy
cake. We ooooed and ahhhed, Mendoza laughed: “Oh, good! I never know if you’ll
see it as a trendy parlor trick or as a brilliant dessert.”
Discussing the science of baking, we learned that the butter
and sugar were the flavor, eggs provide the rise, and the flour is what sets
the eggs. An attendee commented that Mendoza’s recipes were metric. He took the
opportunity to exhort us to switch to metric measurements. “Sixty grams of
flour is sixty grams of flour no matter if you’re using almond flour or cake
flour. Metric is more consistent,” he explained.
His cake was infused with green tea, making a verdant sponge
that he broke into craggy pieces to resemble moss. In this dessert, he mirrored
our environment, plating a speculoos cookie butter-covered ice cream rock with
the mossy cake pieces. He secured the rock to the plate with a dollop of lemon
curd and dusted the entire thing with a mixture of green tea and shiso powder.
Nasturtium and radish blossoms added some floral flair.
A portion of the evening’s proceeds benefitted Everyone’s
Harvest, co-founded by Iris Peppard who launched the organization as part
of her capstone project from California State University Monterey Bay (CSUMB)
for her degree in Integrated Studies with an emphasis on Community Organizing.
The vision: every community needs access to reasonably priced fresh, organic
produce in weekly community setting.
Over the past thirteen years, Everyone’s Harvest has grown
to include two year-round markets—in Pacific Grove and Marina—and two seasonal
markets in Salinas. More than half of Everyone’s Harvest Certified Farmers’
Markets farmers are certified organic and come from within a 100-mile radius of
Monterey County. Everyone’s Harvest is piloting partnerships between healthcare
providers and farmers’ markets through its Fresh Produce Prescription Program. In the spirit of collaboration, the
markets offer free space to other nonprofits organizations, community groups, and
government entities for public outreach. Additionally, the nonprofit manages
five community projects in its mission to give more people access to fresh,
local, affordable food.
There is only one more In Your Backyard event before the
series finale, a picnic on July 15th at the historic Holman
Ranch. Attendees will enjoy spectacular views, Holman Ranch wines, music, and
food while supporting six worthy causes—Ag Against Hunger, Everyone’s Harvest,
Food Bank of Monterey County, MEarth, Nancy’s Project, and Seafood Watch.
On June 16th, executive chef Ken MacDonald from
Edgars at Quail Lodge in Carmel Valley and Serendipity Farms’ Jamie Collins
will guide people from garden to table, sharing how to plant your garden with
your menus in mind and offering tips for cooking your bounty.
To reserve your tickets, call the Holman tasting room at
831.659.2640 or email info@holmanranch.com. Tickets are $10 for wine club
members and $25 for others; seating is very limited.
The Holman tasting room is located at 19 East Carmel Valley
Rd. in Carmel Valley Village.
For information on the entire In Your Backyard program, go
to www.ediblemontereybay.com and
click on the events tab.
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