Community, Local Produce and Talented Foodsmiths Help Carmel Valley Market Take Off
Story and Photos by Camilla M. Mann
April 14, 2015 – Farmers’ markets have evolved in
recent years. No longer are they simply venues where farmers bring their fruits
and vegetables. Certainly there is no dearth of farmers showcasing their
freshest, in-season produce, but market stalls now also house artisanal foods,
crafts, and services. The fledgling market in Carmel Valley’s Village is no
exception. There are things to buy, things to try, and things that make you
pause and squeal in delight. Yes, literally squeal.
Friday afternoons from 2pm to 6pm, the parking lot at the
Carmel Valley Community Center is crowded with vendors and customers—some
familiar faces and some new ones—for example, sixth-grader Jake Reisdorf, who
runs Carmel Honey Company.
Jake excitedly explained how his business evolved from an
assignment when one of his teachers at Carmel River School tasked the students
with creating a website. Instead of setting up a fictional business, Reisdorf
decided to pursue beekeeping. Now a student at Carmel Middle School, he has
nurtured a school project into a successful entrepreneurial venture.
Reisdorf started with two hives last year. In addition
to selling honey, he’s now at the point where he can deliver hives to people
who want the pollination services of his bees. His eyes lit up when he proudly
shared, “I don’t filter my honey. When you filter your honey, you’re taking out
the pollen. The pollen causes the honey to crystallize—so honey-bee guys don’t
like it—but it’s the pollen that can help with allergies.”
Farmers travel from just around the corner—such as Carmel
Valley’s own Serendipity Farms –and from further afield. Cipponeri Farms drives
from Turlock to peddle colorful tubs of dried fruits and almonds. Medina Berry
Farm and Rodriguez Ranch come from Watsonville in Santa Cruz County and Avila
Farms, out of Hollister, represents San Benito County.
The prepared items are just as varied and intriguing.
Sharing a booth with Central Coast Juicery’s Mark Kaltenbacher is Shiho
Fukushima whose food-related ventures include managing her family’s Ocean Sushi
Deli, critiquing restaurants for Monterey County Weekly, and running a
gluten-free catering company. Fukushima, under the umbrella of Gluten-Free
Shiho, has recently launched Bone Dashi. Dashi means ‘broth’ in Japanese.
Her bone broth takes two days to make and she’s a devotee of
its benefits. Suffering from leaky gut syndrome, Fukushima explains, “Bone
broth—rich in collagen, gelatin, and amino acids—calms my gut.” So, along with
Kaltenbacher’s raw, cold-pressed juices, Fukushima offers jars of her bone
dashi, made with Fogline Farms chicken bones and beef bones from Morris
Grassfed. One sip of her warmed, calming brew and I was convinced of its
restorative power.
Another fun addition to the market community is the
husband-wife team of Monterey Meringues. Leigh Zimmerman and Domenick Allen are
making multi-hued meringues whose trademarked names pay homage to classic rock
legends, including Oreo® Speedwagon, Nuts ‘N Roses™, Black-berry Sabbath™, and
The Almond Brothers™.
Zimmerman studied the art of baking meringues and macarons
at Le Cordon Bleu in London before relocating to Monterey with her family.
Together Zimmerman, Allen, and their teenage daughter have added some flair and
panache to the usually austere, white teardrop-shaped treat. Monterey
Meringues’ morsels have crunchy exteriors around a billowy center. And,
surprisingly, the cheerful colors are achieved with all-natural vegetable and
fruit powders.