I shared
my glee at getting my first cover earlier, but here's the accompanying story...in
Edible Monterey Bay's Summer 2013 issue.
Bee Yourself
Honey, anarchy, and
saving the world, one hive at a time
Story and Photos by
Camilla M. Mann
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The do-it-yourself
culture is booming, and I don’t just mean making your own invitations or
holiday wreaths. I mean DIY in the sense of reskilling. The trend is a revival
of skills that were once commonplace, like raising chickens, making clothes
and foraging for edible plants. It’s a throwback to a more self-sufficient time
by planting gardens, canning vegetables, making jam, brewing beer and keeping
bees. While some people are doing these things as a way to combat tough
economic times, others are acquiring knowledge to improve their quality of
life, preserve the environment—and have fun!
Take backyard beekeeping.
It may seem a recent phenomenon but its history began centuries ago. There are
rock paintings in both Spain and India from the Mesolithic era (10,000–5,000
BC) that depict hunters who collected honey made by wild bees. Honey is
mentioned in both Sumerian and Babylonian cuneiform texts.
Eventually,
people began to domesticate bees, transferring the wild hives into hollowed out
logs, wooden boxes and pottery vessels, and the honey produced by these early
beekeepers became a highly prized form of currency or tribute. Sealed pots of
honey have been recovered from pharaohs’ tombs, including Tutankhamun’s, for
example, and during the 11th century, German peasants paid their feudal
lords in honey and beeswax.
The records of ancient
Rome and Greece give us a glimpse into the lives of bees and beekeeping. Virgil
kept bees. Pliny the Elder extensively documented how Romans crafted hives from
cork, oak bark or fennel stems in his Natural History: The Selection. Pliny
wrote of ancient observation hives built by the Romans with transparent sides
made of thinly sliced, highly polished horn. (Today observation hives have
walls made of glass.)
Thanks to a tip from
Betty Kasson, a hobbyist beekeeper in Carmel Valley, I attended a gathering of
the Anarchist Bee Collective, a beekeepers’ group that meets monthly to share
information, opportunities and experiences over breakfast. They aren’t
“anarchist” in the militant, politically activist way. Instead, they use the
term literally. In Latin, anarchia means “without a ruler,” and that is what
they are—beekeepers who get together without bothering with rules or any real
structure. One secondary definition of anarchy is to act without instructions
or permission, possessing the impulse to do it oneself. In that sense,
anarchists are the ultimate DIYers.
At the Saturday morning
breakfast gathering I attended, the ABC beekeepers hailed from Prunedale to
Pebble Beach. As forks clinked against plates, people chatted about bees. I sat
with Denise Gluhan, from Aromas, who characterizes herself as a novice. She maintains
three hives and has been keeping bees for about a year. Denise is allergic to
bees. “Why would you put yourself in the position of being stung if you could
go into anaphylactic shock?!” I asked, incredulous. She assured me that she
carries an epinephrine pen, but that she has never had to use it. While she
can’t get any of the wax on her or she’ll react adversely, she can—and does—
enjoy the honey that her bees produce.
At the other end of the
beekeeping spectrum was Peter Eichorn, from Country Flat Farm in Palo Colorado,
who has been keeping bees and selling honey since 1965. Peter refers to himself
as “The Honey Guy,” stating that he’s in it for the honey, not bee
conservation. “He says that,” said a woman who has taken one of Peter’s
workshops, “but I’ve seen him cry over losing a queen.” Peter instructed the
ABC on how to use yarrow fronds dipped in mineral oil as natural mite
abatement.
No matter the experience
of the bee-keeper, I found that each one I met was motivated at least in
part by a desire to help support the bee population. The idea of bee- keepers
saving the world might sound hyperbolic, but our food supply relies on bees
and their ability to pollinate plants. Their decimation in numbers by colony
collapse disorder (CCD)—which causes adult bees to abruptly abandon their
hives, leaving the young to die—is alarming. In recent years many beekeepers
around the country have lost about of third of their bees each winter to CCD;
this past winter, it was widely reported that losses spiked to as much as
50%.
This
is a far reaching problem, because as much as a third of the food we eat can’t
be produced without pollination by bees. A report issued jointly by the United
States Department of Agriculture and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
in May noted that revenue from crops that rely on bees for pollination totals
$20 to $30 billion annually, making it “imperative” that honey bee survival
rates be increased in order “to meet the demands of U.S. agriculture for
pollination and thus ensure…food security.”
Here’s one statistic I
heard at a workshop led by Ed, a beekeeper from Livermore, who rents his bees
to farmers for pollination: Without bees, an acre of almond trees would
produce 50 to 60 pounds of almonds. With two bee hives in place in that same
orchard, production soars to about 3,000 pounds! At the time of the workshop,
Ed’s bees were in the Central Valley—in an almond orchard.
Bees pollinate plants
accidentally. While scooping up nectar at the base of flower petals, bees
inadvertently rub against flower stamens and pollen sticks to them. As the bees
move between blossoms, pollen transfers from one flower to the next. Some
pollen returns with the bee to the colony.
A bee colony is
considered a superorganism. All of the bees in a hive are part of a highly
specialized division of labor, working toward the singular goal of
maintaining their hive. To that end, there is one queen whose sole purpose is
to lay eggs—up to 3,000 daily. Drones are the only males in the hive and their
role is also remarkably simple—to mate with the queen. Worker bees are
nonreproducing females who, throughout their brief lifetimes, perform all of
the rest of the work required to keep the hive functioning and producing honey.
Ed owns and operates
Gerard’Z Honeybees, named for his grandfather, who introduced him to
beekeeping when he was 9 years old. At the time, tending the bees was a dreaded
chore. Ed admits, “I grudgingly helped my grandfather, but I would rather have
been playing baseball.”
Today, Ed not only tends
bees, but he also is working to save them. “Bees are in real trouble now, with
diseases and colony collapse disorder.”
The USDA and EPA report
issued in May blamed CCD on an interrelated series of factors including
parasites, pesticides, disease, loss of genetic diversity and decline a in
nutritious, diverse bee forage.
After years of mystery
(CCD was first noticed in 2006), so much evidence now points in particular to a
relatively new class of pesticides called neonicotinoids—a systemic pesticide
that is used to treat seed prior to planting and is absorbed into plants’
vascular systems—that in March, a group of beekeepers and environmental
organizations together filed a lawsuit in Federal District Court against the
EPA, accusing it of failure to protect pollinators from dangerous pesticides
like neonicotinoids. And on April 29, the European Union imposed an emergency
two-year ban on the use of neonicotinoids across all of Europe.
The USDA/EPA report
stated that pesticides are a “primary” concern but it called for further
research and recommended no such immediate bans to protect the bee population
in the meantime.
For
ordinary citizens like us, Ed says the four basic pillars for saving bees are
to grow nectar-rich and pollen-rich flowers for bees, provide them with homes
like beehives, avoid using pesticides and spread the word. (See more about what
you can do in related story, p. 37.) Ed spreads the word by leading work- shops
and encouraging people to keep bees wherever they live. “You don’t have to live
out in the country to have a beehive,” he asserts. “An urban environment is
perfect. There’s a diversity of plants to forage around in the city. Just look
in your yard and your neighbor’s yard.”
And aside from saving the
bees, bee-keeping of course also rewards with honey—that delicious “food of
the Gods,” as the Greek philosopher Porphyry called it, which is also highly
nutritious and medicinal, and adds extended shelf-life and moistness to the
foods to which it is added.
Honey starts as the
flower nectar that worker bees slurp up and store in their honey stomachs until
they return to the hive. A bee will forage between three to four miles from the
hive in search of food and might visit 100–1,000 flowers to get her fill.
Once foraging bees return
to the hive, they pass the nectar to other worker bees whose digestive
enzymes change the com- position of the nectar, breaking down the complex
sugars into simple sugars. These bees in turn regurgitate the digested nectar
into the honeycombs. At this point the nectar still has fairly high water
content, so other worker bees fan the nectar with their wings, producing a
draft that evaporates the excess liquid. As the water evaporates, the nectar
transforms into the thick, sweet liquid we recognize as honey. Once the honey
reaches proper viscosity, the bees cap the cells with wax to store it until
needed.
Beekeepers can encourage
overproduction of honey within their hives and then harvest the excess without
endangering the bees. In the first year, a beekeeper shouldn’t expect any honey
from the hive, but in later years, hives can generate from 1⁄2 gallon to 10
gallons.
The color and flavor of
honey varies from hive to hive, based on the type of flower nectar collected by
the bees. When I visited Betty, she pulled out a collection of honeys to taste.
As she travels she chats with beekeepers, frequents local markets and carries
her favorite honeys home. We tasted a mahogany-hued honey from Kauai that
tasted like coffee, honey reminiscent of molasses from the Fijian mountains and
one from the herb garden at the Culinary Institute of America in Napa that
looked amber and had a hint of rosemary. We ended with Betty’s own honey, a
delicate and delicious variety that reflects the mix of wild and
cultivated flowers on which the bees feast.
I never got to the
monthly Wednesday night meeting of our region’s other bee- keeping group, the
Santa Cruz Beekeepers Guild. But when I called Mountain Feed and Farm Supply in
Ben Lomond (our area’s only local source for beekeeping equipment) to inquire
about beekeeping gear, Karla DeLong, the guild’s generous and enthusiastic
leader, answered the phone—and all of my questions. The guild, like the ABC, is
an informal one that revolves around its monthly meetings, but also provides
other member services, such as matching veteran beekeeping mentors with newbies
like me.
In the realm of
do-it-yourself, beekeeping can seem daunting—whether or not you’re allergic to
bees. But knowing about local groups like the ABC and the Santa Cruz Beekeepers
Guild, as well as the many classes that are taught locally, it’s not hard to
see why so many people are embracing it. And that’s good news for our bees.
Camilla M. Mann is a food
writer, photographer, adventurer and passionate cook. She blogs at
www.culinary-adventures-with-cam.blogspot.com/ and lives in Monterey.
On the day that I
visited, Guest Services Manager Nick Elliott greeted me, swung open the heavy
wooden doors to the underground workspace, and invited me inside. We strolled
towards a barrel topped with an army of wine goblets and a variety of Holman
Ranch wines, including their estate Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay,
Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé of Pinot Noir. It was the unreleased Chardonnay that
intrigued me the most.
And the 2012 Virgin
Chardonnay is only one of the up-and-coming wines to emerge from Holman Ranch.
Nick, knowing my fondness for Pinot Noir, shared that they will have ten Pinots
with a 2012 vintage. Ten. That is not a typo. While most are small
production—with only about 50 cases bottled of each—Holman is debuting one
larger production wine that will bear the name of the third Lowder daughter,
Kelly.
You can take a
trip to the Holman Ranch Tasting Room in the Carmel Valley Village to taste
their wines. And if you ask really nicely, they might even let you into The
Caves to see where all the magic happens. Or you can attend a special dinner in
July at the vineyard that will showcase their wines.
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